Archaeological evidence suggests that viticulture in Burgundy started as early as 200 AD, and later the monks and monasteries were to have an important influence on the progress of wines which were to become so prized. The Benedictines in the Abbey of Cluny were the first truly big Burgundy vineyard owners. Another religious order which was interested in wine production was the Cistercians who realised that ‘terroir’ was playing a part in the variations in quality and complexity of wines.
There are two grapes that provide the cornerstones of wine production in Burgundy. Dry red wines are made from Pinot Noir grapes and white wines are made from Chardonnay grapes. There are several important wine producing areas, starting in the north with Chablis, which is an outpost near to Champagne; but it’s all about still Chardonnay here. Burgundy is a mecca for lovers of characterful reds. Côte de Nuits is where one finds the sought-after wines of Gevry Chambertin and Nuits Saint Georges. These can be pricey bottles but it’s a thrill to taste them among the vines. Côte de Beaune has a fine reputation for both reds and whites, and Mâconnais, further south, has a focus on Chardonnay. Numerous growers offer vineyard tours and opportunities to stock up at reasonable prices.
The best restaurants will offer diners a taste of regional specialities
But a tourist cannot live on wine alone. This region has traditionally embraced the concepts both of eating locally and of foraging. The cuisine here is different from that of the south. Here butter replaces olive oil and meat replaces fish in this land-locked area. The best restaurants will offer diners a taste of regional specialities and often with contemporary flair. Escargots à la Bourgogne might be described as the epitome of slow food, Boeuf Bourguignon takes advantage of the meat from the ubiquitous pale Charolais cows, and Coq au Vin has a marinade of the aforementioned red wine. Crème de Cassis is made from the abundant blackcurrants and is the indispensable addition to Champagne to make the blushing apéritif Kir.
There are food markets overflowing with fruit and vegetables, flowers and charcuterie, so collect some ingredients for a picnic. There is something romantic and picturesque about a French market. Every town seems to have one which throngs with knowledgeable shoppers who pore over piles of artichokes, cabbages and carrots. A morning here will have visitors wishing they had gone self-catering!
You have a basket full of food and a bottle in the boot, but where to go? Fontenay Abbey should be high on the list of Burgundian must-visits. Its beauty is striking and it introduces the visitor to the lives of monks who would likely have made wine for their own consumption.
In 1981 Fontenay Abbey became a UNESCO World Heritage Site: it is the oldest preserved Cistercian abbey in the world. Monastic orders were responsible for the development of vineyards that now supply the world with some of the finest wines. Burgundy is an historic and gastronomic tapestry in the best possible taste.
Travel review by Chrissie Walker © 2018