I had never been a great Chinese food aficionado. I didn’t know enough about the subject to make informed choices when confronted by a Chinese restaurant menu. So much of it seemed to be rather mild, although pleasant and with diversity of texture, and so often attractively presented.
There were, however, those dishes that did rather tempt and intrigue me. Those plates of red-lacquered meats or vegetables with a strand of sliced red chilli and perhaps a deep-fried peanut or two. Why were these dishes so different? It’s still Chinese food isn’t it? Well, yes, but China is a big country and Sichuan is the size of France. There is bound to be culinary diversity and I had struck on a regional cuisine that did appeal.
Fuchsia Dunlop is our very own Grande Dame (I think she might be a bit young to shoulder that burden) of Sichuan cooking. She isn’t given that accolade because she has enjoyed many a spicy meal in restaurants. She hasn’t been acclaimed as an authority because she has attended a few Chinese cookery classes at her local adult education college. Fuchsia honestly is an expert and is considered so even by Chinese citizens – she has lived and studied in this very province of Sichuan.
Sichuan Cookery is truly a worthy tome that will enthral anyone who has enjoyed those hot-chilli flavours and the unique numbing sensation and savour of Sichuan pepper. It’s a book for lovers of robust tastes and gloriously richly coloured foods. It’s a volume that truly does get one’s mouth watering.
This book is a veritable culinary encyclopaedia and travelogue. It offers the academic a feast of facts and historic anecdote. For those of us who want to grab the wok and cook, Fuchsia presents us with the best dishes that the region has to offer. Plenty of spice but also a raft of subtle recipes that are equally authentic. For example, fried eggs with tomatoes only has salt and pepper and the green parts of spring onions for seasoning.
Glossary of ingredients
The spicy dishes will be the ones that will likely get your attention, though. They will be the reason you were drawn to the book. They are here in profusion, packed with flavour but simple to prepare. There is a glossary of ingredients so you’ll be able to complete your Sichuan pantry with just a quick trip to Chinatown or a simple surf of the net.
I have favourites from every section of this book and Steamed Buns with Spicy Beansprout Stuffing is my choice from the Streetfood chapter. Steamed buns are found in various parts of China but this recipe is distinctly Sichuanese with a filling flavoured with chilli bean paste. Fun finger food.
The pick of the book, for me at least, is Spicy Beef Slices with Tangerine Peel. It has all those components that make this particular Chinese cuisine so enticing. Chilli spice balanced with layers of well-chosen flavours, in this case hints of citrus and Sichuan pepper for that typical taste and tongue-tingle.
Fuchsia Dunlop is rightly recognised for her considerable knowledge but you’ll buy this book because she shares her know-how in a most engaging fashion. She writes with style, humour and consideration for the home cook, whom she supports and encourages. This is surely, or will in future become, a Chinese cookery classic.
Sichuan Cookery
Author: Fuchsia Dunlop
Published by: Penguin
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-0-140-29541-2
See more books by Fuchsia Dunlop here
Read reviews of more Chinese cookbooks here
Cookbook review by Chrissie Walker © 2018