The World of Spice by Michael Bateman – review
Michael Bateman was a tremendously appealing food writer. He wrote his books and newspaper articles with a light and witty air which encouraged even non-foodies to settle down for a good read. The World of Spice is a typical example of Michael’s fine work.
This is a book of amazing photographs, traditional recipes from around the globe, and a Spice Directory. It’s a volume packed with detailed information about individual spices, and historic overviews of the spice heritage not only of the usual spice-producing countries but also of those nations that have had a warm relationship with imported spices.
There are a few countries in the cooler regions of the world that produce spices. The USA has the famed Tabasco, Spain and Hungary the vibrant paprika, and even England had a thriving saffron economy and still has a town, Saffron Waldon, to testify to that fact. Mustard has long been a popular condiment in Europe, and fortunes were said to be made from something that was largely left on the side of the plate. The more exotic spices might not have been grown in the northern hemisphere but they were nonetheless prized and many traditional recipes rely on spices for their distinctive savour.
The recipes are an eclectic bunch from every continent. There are the expected hot and tongue-tingling dishes of Asia alongside the subtle and aromatic offerings of Europe. Some of them are traditional and some are Michael’s take on the originals. All give an insight into the evolution of these indispensable ingredients.
Quatre Epices
We don’t consider the French to be great consumers of spicy food, but they have Quatre Epices which is a melange (isn’t education a marvellous thing) of white pepper, nutmeg, ginger and cloves, although some commercial varieties omit the pepper… but the name remains “Four Spices”!
The New World has some unique recipes. Australia’s Anzac Biscuits demonstrate man’s fondness for elevating foods to promote national pride. These cookies are a crunchy confection of oats and ginger commemorating the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps of the First World War. Louisiana Jambalaya is a classic Creole dish using cayenne pepper and green chilli. Michael suggests it could be one of the world’s first fusion dishes, combining both American and African flavours.
The Spice Directory gives colourful and fascinating information on many spices, illustrating not only culinary but medical uses. Nuts, fruits, flowers, berries, seeds, roots and leaves are all discussed. It’s a fairly comprehensive list but Michael’s conversational style prevents this from being a scientific paper.
The World of Spice is a delight for any lover of spices. It doesn’t focus on any particular cuisine nor just those spices that give heat to exotic dishes. Michael Bateman takes a broad view of everything that is considered Spice. This is an informative and attractive volume and all who appreciated Michael’s talent as a food writer will seek it out.
The World of Spice
Author: Michael Bateman
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-674-5
See more books by Michael Bateman here
Cookbook review by Chrissie Walker © 2018
